Sunday, August 23, 2009
Friday, August 21, 2009
Thursday, August 6, 2009
I almost ran over Billy on this one
Saturday, July 25, 2009
It was cool to ride the different boards and surf in 4 different spots where I saw a lot of old faces right before I leave for Florida. It's all very nostalgic.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Saturday, July 18, 2009
This morning was shaping up well with light off shores and a couple feet of swell at a decent period at WB, so I got up at 5:45 and was on the beach by 6:20. I watched for a few minutes, trying to make up my mind. There were only two people out and they didn't seem to be catching much. I decided that since I had gotten up and driven down I might as well get wet, so I drove a couple blocks down and found a parking spot close to an access and waxed the log, hoping I might just catch enough to make it worth getting up (it doesn't take much). I made my way up to the access where we meet and eventually found Cam, having ridden a few pretty good waves in the meantime. It ended up being pretty darn fun, with stomach high glassy waves, left and right, a bit of a pack (it is Sat. and July after all), but spread out enough so that it wasn't a problem. By 7:30 I was surfing with Jim (the boss), Cameron, and Billy, all good company. It's not saying much, because I'm not a great noserider, but I got three of the best noserides I've ever had. It was a memorable session on that note alone. Just fun quick clean waist-stomach open-faced lefts where I could make my turn and run to the nose. Usually that lasts only a second before I've either fallen, outrun the wave, or have to back off, but these waves just held up perfectly in front of me, and water was breaking over the tail, so it held me up. I got out around 8:30 and went to work to get a shower and cup of coffee before the day really got going. It was a good one.
And I even have witnesses.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Bill and Georgia, Covi, Jason, Cam, and myself showed up and everybody got in the water for a bit (except Jason, who chilled on the beach and shot pictures). The waves were super clean and glassy, thigh-waist high, and a little chubby with the falling tide. We traded waves for a while and hooted at each other. It was so much fun that we're going again tomorrow. How cool is that? Play in the ocean before the workday with your coworkers? The people that didn't show were so jealous that I think tomorrow they'll be a few more people. It was my first surf at C street, and it was pretty fun and uncrowded. Bill and Georgia took a bunch of photos which Bill then cobbled together in a slide show and set to music to show at work. He even got some OK shots of me I think (I'll post a few when I get them).
Super cool. What a great way to start your day.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Lastly, it doesn't matter what ill-informed opinions this person holds anyway. I've got a great life, a fun job, a healthy relationship with a great girl, a family that loves me, (mostly) good friends who I get to share it with, and access to lots of things that I like to do. My quality of life is ridiculously high.
Still, I should be surfing more (you can never really get enough). Cheers.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
The campground was practically empty and there were tons of spots to choose from in the big open field with bathroom/shower houses spaced every ~50 yards. There was a light rain when we arrived, so we decided to wait for that to pass to set up camp, as there was plenty of daylight left. I took a cold shower (the only kind available) which I was very grateful for. The rain cleared out and we threw the tent up and then relaxed behind the truck sipping Jack Daniel's from P's flask and discussing our good luck at picking what one local called "the best day of the summer so far" to take our trip. It was idyllic. The temperature was very comfortable, almost cool as dark approached. There were no biting bugs and very few other sorts. We were tired and full from dinner and there was light breeze and the sun was setting and lighting all the clouds up pink and purple and orange. At dark we turned in and I fell immediately to sleep. We were within sight of the historic Hatteras Light, which periodically flashed its steady warning to mariners into the tent on the nearly moonless night.
We woke at dawn, brushed teeth, and packed up. The ranger never came to visit, which means that we got to camp for free. We drove out of the campground towards the main road, stopping at the burial sight of British sailors who washed up on the island during WWII, victims of German U-boat attacks. We also drove over to the light and did a surf check before driving out of the park to hunt down some breakfast. There were some people out, but the size diminished greatly overnight and we decided to look elsewhere. We found a great little diner called Island Perks, where we got an excellent cup of strong coffee (the Hatteras Harbor blend, the strongest they had) and a standard breakfast of eggs, bacon, home fries and biscuit. Sated, we headed N to find some waves. The first spot we checked is known as S-turns. There's a big beautiful house about to fall into the ocean. It's apparently where the recent Richard Gere film Nights in Rodanthe was filmed, but I'll never know for sure because I won't be watching it. The main peak breaks close to the beach and right in front of the house, which the shorebreak literally washes right under as it rushes up the beach. There were a pack of about 8 guys out, all on shortboards, and after watching for a bit we could see that it wasn't good for our logs, so I grabbed the swim fins and my lunch tray and swam out to bodysurf for a bit. The wave was very clean (no wind) and thick, about stomach high. It was punchy and perfect for bodysurfing and reminded me of my old days at Makapu'u in Oahu. I stayed out for 30 mins while P ambled about on the beach taking photos and picking up trash (he's really good about always picking up other peoples junk).
At about ten we stuck off to find a better wave. We stopped at Boilers, which wasn't working at all. Then up to Nags Head, where we looked at the Nags Head Pier and several CAMA beach accesses until we found a wave that looked worthwhile (Admiral St.). The waves were still very glassy and clean, but smaller than the day before at waist-stomach. Still, they were pretty fast and steep, with rights and lefts, and we had another good session. I was sore and a little burned from yesterday. I wore a t-shirt and a hat for sun protection (and sunscreen of course) and we surfed about 2 hours. We had it nearly to ourselves, aside from the numerous folks on the beach, some of whom occasionally floated like so much flotsam in the shorebreak and needed to be carefully avoided when surfing in close. Once again, we couldn't believe our good luck to find fun uncrowded surf. We got out of the water sometime after one, cleaned up, and then drove up to The Pit for lunch, which is a combination bar and grill/surf shop. Lunch was great, bought a t-shirt from the shop, and then started the drive home around 3. We opted to drive out through Manteo rather than be dependent on ferry schedules. I got home tonight around 8:30, threw a frozen pizza in the oven, took a shower, and ate. Now I'm about to go to bed, which is going to feel really good. It was an awesome trip. I'll post more photos when P sends them to me. Oblige me and pardon any poor grammar, as I'm exhausted and not thinking completely clearly. Cheers.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Monday, June 8, 2009
Cover (not me)
How cool is that?! I finally got my picture in a surf magazine. So what if it's a little local pub; I've got street cred. Thanks to Pete for telling me to send it in, and Chris at the mag for including it. This makes my second article published to date, the first being "My Parents Shopped at Walmart and All I Got Was this Lousy Mullet" in The Neely Chronicle about 5 years ago. That one was funnier, but this one is a little cooler. Send your own photos and observations to the mag at http://www.local-sessions.com/
My Story, and photo of me by my best surfing buddy Peter Fritzler
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Sadly, there's a little delam starting to pop up on the nose of my log. What to do?
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Monday, March 23, 2009
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Friday, March 13, 2009
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Friday, February 20, 2009
Now it's back to status quo, I'm afraid. What a great break from the old routine, though.
From left to right: 6'4" Allison Quad Fish, 7'6" Takayama Singlefin Egg, 9' Stewart LSP 2+1, 9'6" Chris Adams Odyssey Single, 6'2" Allison Single w/ rounded pin.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
As my boy P-funk says, "The sea is an unruly mistress."
Let's hope she smiles on us in the morning.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Clean your old board up and think about the waves you've ridden together.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
That's our same local boy about to go over the falls. I can't imagine what that must have felt like. This is one of those mindbender waves that you might not want to surf, even in your head. Could I surf this wave? Not yeti.
I'm sorry, but I love a bad pun.
If you want to see more:
Monday, January 26, 2009
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Thursday, January 8, 2009
This got me thinking about paipos and hand planes. I don't have the space or tools or knowledge for shaping surfboards right now, but I've been wanting to build myself a paipo for a long time. Paipos exist outside of the hustle and bullshit that is our popular surf industry. The skill and tools needed are minimal, and cost is very low. I can get a sheet of marine ply or poplar at the local hardware store and then do whatever I want. This spring, I am going to design, build, and ride my very own wave-sliding vehicle. It won't be high performance, and there won't be some hot kid with all the right moves riding one, but I will have made it, and I think that sounds pretty damn exciting, imperfections and all. My hope is that it will be fraught with the pure, simple, unadulterated thrill that comes with the fundamental act of riding a wave, which is all surfing really is. Free of care, free of worry, free of commercialism. No stickers, no shops, no nonsense. Just me and a piece of wood in a closeout barrel wearing the biggest shit-eating grin you've ever seen.