Thursday, April 30, 2009

WBLA Surf Contest

The local longboard club is putting on their annual contest this weekend. I've never surfed in it, but I did meet my best pal P-Funk at the 3rd, where we were judges (how I got that job I'll never know). Anyway, that was the start of a long and fruitful friendship, and we've ridden a bunch of waves since then. Check it out.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Morning Glass

Not Me, This Morning, photo from

I paddled out at #10 this morning for almost two hours of surf before I had to be at work. It was great. No wind, waist-stomach sets, glassy and fast. I got into the water around 7 with about 3 other guys, all very nice. They left before 8 and then I shared a peak with a nice gal who teaches psych at UNCW, Simone. She gave me the best compliment I've ever gotten in the water from a complete stranger. I got a really good left (I'm a goofy footer) and had one of the better noserides I've ever had. She saw it all and asked how long I'd been surfing. When I replied, "7 or 8 years," she said "You're really good!" She said it with such enthusiasm too. I demurred and mumbled something about that being a really good wave in an otherwise mediocre career, but I was excited to get the compliment. I got my fill and paddled in as the crowd started to show up. It was a great session (you missed it P-funk). Water's warming on up. I think today was my last full suit session. I'm ready to move to the l/s springer until I'm comfy in trunks. Woohoo.

Sadly, there's a little delam starting to pop up on the nose of my log. What to do?

Saturday, April 18, 2009


Stole out for a pre-work dawn session this morning with the surfbrarian and had a blast on fun waist + zippers. It was a beautiful morning, pretty warm, no wind, sunny and glassy. I caught enough race for the shoulder peelers on my log to keep me satisfied for a few days. Hope you got some.