Hodad

I recently learned that a "friend" suggested that I'm not as into surfing as I used to be, and that I don't even do it that much anymore. This in itself is somewhat innocuous, but my interpretation is that friend was questioning my credibility (this is based on knowing friend for a long time and other comments made at the same time). The friend doesn't surf, barely ever sees me, and has no idea how often I do or don't ride waves. Friend was, in effect, calling me a hodad, even though they don't have a clue what a hodad is (my blog title is meant to be ironic). Now, I do have to admit that there was a time when everything I did was related to surfing, and that I would agonize over what to do when it was flat. I devoured the latest issues of my favorite surf mags and watched movies over and over again. I even participated in the forum on our local surf report website (I long ago decided that was stupid). I talked enthusiastically about lifestyle and being committed and all sorts of other pseudo-philosophical things related to surfing. Some opinions I still hold, and others I've outgrown. At first I was pretty pissed, and a little hurt, that this person would say those things, as they obviously indicate a lack of respect for me. But I've been thinking about it more, and I've come to a couple conclusions: it doesn't matter how often I get to hit the water, as long as it stokes me and I'm having a good time. I have gotten busier, it's true. The carefree days of college are over, and now I have to use my time more judiciously. I've got a great girlfriend who expects to hang out with me, and with whom I like spending time. And I've added kayaking and cycling to favored recreational pursuits. In the past I went surfing when it was big and blown out and shitty, when it was perfect, and when it was small and nearly unrideable. I went all the time. Now I've diversified. Surfing is still my number one, but if it's junky then why wouldn't I go do something else and have more fun doing it? I'll surf when I think it's good; otherwise I'll be riding my bike or paddling or training for triathlons, all great fun in themselves and good for me to boot. They all equal a fitter me, which benefits my surfing, and the swimming for triathlons and kayaking make me a better waterman. My love of surfing isn't diminished. If anything surfing is more part of my life because it fits better now. I'm not dominated by it all the time because I have the freedom to do other things too. As for the health of my surfing street cred, it's good enough for me. I check the surf multiple times everyday, talk about it with friends and coworkers, blog about it, published an article on it, went on a trip to do it, etc. I don't know to better incorporate surfing into my life right now unless I relinquish worldly possessions and any hope for a personal future and go live in a bungalow with a couple boards on a beach somewhere.

Lastly, it doesn't matter what ill-informed opinions this person holds anyway. I've got a great life, a fun job, a healthy relationship with a great girl, a family that loves me, (mostly) good friends who I get to share it with, and access to lots of things that I like to do. My quality of life is ridiculously high.

Still, I should be surfing more (you can never really get enough). Cheers.