Not Me, This Morning, photo from WBLiveSurf.comI paddled out at #10 this morning for almost two hours of surf before I had to be at work. It was great. No wind, waist-stomach sets, glassy and fast. I got into the water around 7 with about 3 other guys, all very nice. They left before 8 and then I shared a peak with a nice gal who teaches psych at UNCW, Simone. She gave me the best compliment I've ever gotten in the water from a complete stranger. I got a really good left (I'm a goofy footer) and had one of the better noserides I've ever had. She saw it all and asked how long I'd been surfing. When I replied, "7 or 8 years," she said "You're really good!" She said it with such enthusiasm too. I demurred and mumbled something about that being a really good wave in an otherwise mediocre career, but I was excited to get the compliment. I got my fill and paddled in as the crowd started to show up. It was a great session (you missed it P-funk). Water's warming on up. I think today was my last full suit session. I'm ready to move to the l/s springer until I'm comfy in trunks. Woohoo.
Sadly, there's a little delam starting to pop up on the nose of my log. What to do?
Sadly, there's a little delam starting to pop up on the nose of my log. What to do?
1 comment:
Pfunk got skunked, but will try for tomorrow.
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